If you’re a fan of The Wine Show and found yourself thinking “that Joe Fattorini seems like a nice guy”, then I’m here to tell you that he really is! We met Joe at a tasting last year, had a chat about the show and hung out for a while. Friendly, chatty, knowledgeable and generous with his time – yep… definitely a nice guy.
Of course, that was his error as I set about stalking him on twitter and bouncing a few ideas off him which somehow ended up with him making the offer for me to email him a few questions to answer. I can only assume he saw this as a cheaper alternative to taking out a restraining order. Anyway, such was the quality of his answers I’ve decided to spin them out over the course of five newsletters.
In our last four newsletters we asked for his pointers about hunting down the best value in 2018, we tackled the contentious issue of natural wine, how you can get the very best out of your wine and Joe’s biggest gripe with wine merchants. In this edition we talk about avoiding coded wine speak…
Here at BinTwo we try really hard to avoid using wine-bore jargon in the way we describe our wines. But we’re not immune to the odd “pencil shavings” slipping into our notes and sometimes I fear I may describe things too plainly. I know we could do better. Any top tips on striking the right balance between describing wines credibly but in a user-friendly way?
You SHOULD use pencil shavings in your tasting notes. Especially if it actually smells of pencil shavings. I had a Crozes Hermitage at a restaurant (Blandford Comptoir- owned by super-sommelier Xavier Rousset MS) last week that absolutely reeked of black olives. You need to highlight these things. But… when you ask people what they like about a wine they pretty much never say “well, I like a wine that smells of pencil shavings and black olive”. They say things like “I like a big wine” or “a smooth wine” or “zesty wines”.
Texture matters much more than aroma for most people when they’re thinking of preference. I like to see how I can expand my lexicon of textures. “Velveteen” “sandpaper tannins” “lissom”. Also it’s much more reliable. People are consistent in describing textures. But our ability to consistently name smells is much less reliable. It doesn’t mean we’re bad tasters.
There’s a fabulous new study by Asifa Majid at Raboud University in the Netherlands and Nicole Kruspe at Lund University in Sweden. They did work with a hunter gatherer trip called the Jahai in Malaysia. The found the Jahai could consistently name aromas accurately. But an agrarian group called the Semelai with a similar language nearby struggled. Much like people in the West. It seems like we lost the ability to make close assessments of smell when we started farming.
That’s the last of our “Better Ask Joe” series and I’m hugely grateful to him for taking the time out of his busy schedule to share his thoughts. I can’t help but feel that his excellent answers were deserving of far better questions. The lessons I’m taking away are:
1. Use terms and language that customers can easily relate to.
2. Match our level of “wine enthusiasm” to that of the customer in front of us.
3. Sell our wines with a genuine personal promise that we think this particular wine is right for the occasion the customer has described to us.
4. Natural wine – confirms my thinking that they can be great but are often awful. I think you deserve a better level of assurance that it’s all going to be alright when you hand over your money.
5. In the context of BREXIT and a tough 2017 harvest we’re going to have to work harder at sourcing great value wines for you. Luckily we enjoy that bit!
From our fourth edition of 2018:
Obviously at BinTwo we’re generally awesome in every way (ahem). But what would you tell our customers they should expect from us as a good independent wine merchant? And, put another way, what’s your biggest gripe with wine shops? (Careful now, Joe).
All wine merchants – and I’ve been one since the early 1990’s – have one HUGE problem. We love wine. We live wine. Wine runs through our veins almost as literally as it does metaphorically. And the same is true of some of our customers. But… there are an awful lot people who just want a nice drink. Most people just want a lovely drink. And wine nuts like us really struggle to understand that. Most people are not as naturally as enthused with wine as we are. Great merchants take a bit of time to understand their customers’ “enthusiasm level” and tailor their advice accordingly. It’s a bit like selling a car. Enthusiasts want to know what the horsepower and torque is. In the same way we want to know what sort of oak wine was fermented in. But a lot of valuable and brilliant customers want to know if the car comes in metallic blue and will still look good in a year. Just like some wine customers want to know if it goes with quiche and their boyfriend will like it. It takes a bit of empathy to get that balance right. Empathy. That’s the word. That’s what good wine merchants need.
Joe’s response to this question really struck a chord with me. As long term followers may recall, we sort of fell into the wine trade 5 years ago so we had to compensate for our relative lack of experience and knowledge. I think we’ve done that by speaking to people in plain English at their “wine level” – frankly we had little other choice in the early days.
We found that people responded really well – often with a palpable sense of relief. For some of our customers I think they’ve liked the sense that we’re on the learning journey too. I trust you all to let me know if we start losing sight of our roots!
It’s driven my recruiting decisions too. I always look for people who know how to look after other people and make them feel comfortable. It could be because we’re a hybrid merchant/bar, or it could be because we’re in Padstow. But those traits seem to be much more important than their wine knowledge. We can teach staff about wine but it’s hard to teach people to be nice, friendly and approachable.
From our third edition of 2018:
Even in spite of the general tomfoolery that some of us routinely display, our customers really do seem to trust us to help guide them to a great wine that they’re likely to enjoy (thank goodness for Kate and the rest of the team). What tips would you offer our customers to help them get the very best out of their wine when drinking at home?
Can I give you a weird one? It’s something that may help you guide people as much and people be guided. One of the great myths – and I absolutely believe this – is that people are on a quest to find the finest, grandest, greatest value-for-money wine they can. Actually, I think people are far more motivated by a fear of disappointment than a determination to maximise pleasure. Great tasting notes, analysis and food matching don’t help people in those circumstances. What really matters is a personal promise, a solemn oath that the human being in front of you endorses this choice. And that it’s right for the occasion. We match wine to occasion more than anything. Am I relaxing with my partner with this? Impressing a friend? Looking for a gastronomic treat? Seeking adventure? What’s really helpful is for someone – like you and your team –to say “in those circumstance, this is what I would do”. That really makes a difference.
Wise words from Joe. We completely buy into the concept of the “personal promise – a solemn oath” philosophy. It underpins the way we buy all of our wines – do we like them? Can we all get behind them? There’s no “padding” on our shelves – nothing bought in bulk even if the wine was a bit average but the price was right. No “manager’s special” against which the team have sales targets. Rather our philosphy is summed up by our Wines We Love approach. We give free rein to one of the team and ask them to pick a wine they love then write a bit about it so we can share it with you and give you an honest pointer. Authenticity is the word that has been rattling around in my head – that’s what I hope sets us apart.
From our second edition of 2018:
Natural wine – I’m deeply sceptical. Champions of natural wine say that it is the purest expression of the grape. I say a raw potato might be the purest expression of a spud but development over time has proven to my satisfaction that it tastes better when it’s baked and slathered in butter! Am I missing something? Am I a philistine? Guide me wise one…
“Some of the loveliest bottles I’ve had have been natural wines. And unquestionably most of the worst wines I’ve ever had have been natural wines. And that’s their problem. And their charm. If you’re an enthusiast – or at least a particular sort of enthusiast – there’s a great excitement about finding one of those magic wine moments. And when natural wine is good it’s quite extraordinarily good. But most of us want a basic level of assurance that a bottle of wine you’ve spent a half decent sum of money on isn’t going to take like a cross between horse urine and cider vinegar. And natural wine often can’t give you that assurance. I don’t belong to that sort of fundamentalist sect that necessarily believes that because it’s natural it’s good. And what really infuriates me is when people say, “you just don’t understand it”. Of course, I do you complete clown. It just tastes like I’ve been sick in my mouth.”
Unsurprisingly Joe puts it much better than me. He’s summed up nicely why I’ve found it hard to get behind natural wines in a big way. It’s just too much of a gamble for me to ask you to take when you’re spending a reasonable chunk of money with us. That variation from one bottle to the next, often variation in quality between bottles in the same case of six, is just a bit too much uncertainty for my liking. Biodynamic wines however… now that’s a different matter all together! But what does biodynamic even mean? Read more…
From our first edition of 2018:
Thanks for joining us, Joe. 2017 saw the double whammy of an historically poor harvest in most of Europe and the fall of the pound following BREXIT. We’re now seeing the associated price increases flow through from suppliers. We love a “new find” at BinTwo and relish getting behind wines from less well known origins. Any top tips on where we should look to find great value, interesting wines in 2018?
“This is an interesting one. It’s not a fashionable view, but I think the poor harvest is a bigger issue than the value of the pound. Volumes in 2017 are down 30%, 40%… more in some places. It was an extraordinary vintage. And so early too. I was meeting producers last year who’d harvested in July and August rather than September. That will push up prices, but more importantly, push us all into new regions.
The Pound feels low, and is lower than we’ve been used to it. But it’s not much lower than the average value against the Euro between 2010 and 2014. But the duty escalator and coupled with the rising pound between 2014 to 2016 means we’ve really felt the return to a that lower level with a serious bump. I blame government tax policy more than Brexit for that pain. What really matters is finding interesting wines now.
My gut feel is that Eastern Europe and Australia are two early winners. Those semi-aromatic whites like Furmint blends from Slovenia or straight Furmints from Hungary. New lighter and fresher whites and tamer premium reds from Australia too, filling in the gaps left by Chianti Classico or Macon where vintages have been rough. I suspect varieties to look out for are Verdejo, Vermentino, Bobal and all sorts from Aus. There are some great Fianos and fresh Chardonnays and I loved the different styles of Shiraz at the recent Australia Day Tastings in London.”
Footnote: we took this advice to heart at this year’s tastings and have some cracking finds heading to the BinTwo shelves including some knock-out (and great value) wines from Australia. Watch this space..
What a Summer it has been so far! We’ve selected a bunch of wines which encapsulate the last couple of balmy months at Bintwo…
We just can’t get enough of the rosé so we simply had to include our best-selling pink plus a delicious sparkling. We also had to share with you the highlights from our Langlois-Château tasting plus a couple of extremely food (and barbecue) friendly recent additions.
Langlois-Château Crémant de Loire Rosé NV £18
Loire Valley, France
Fresh, fruity and full-bodied sparkling rosé. Strawberry scented and bursting with ripe raspberries and a touch of blackcurrant. Simply delicious!
Made with Cabernet Franc grapes traditionally used to make Loire Valley reds. Top quality grapes are selected and hand-picked before going through the ‘Traditional Method’, whereby a secondary fermentation takes place in the bottle (just like for Champagne)
A fun summertime fizz, which is a perfect aperitif or could also be enjoyed with a summer fruit dessert.
Langlois-Château Muscadet Sèvre et Maine Sur Lie 2017 £12.50
Loire Valley, France
Everything you would want from a Muscadet! A fresh, fruity and friendly wine. Delicate aromas of stone and citrus fruit which continue in flavour on the palate. A refreshing drop with an enjoyable lasting finish.
To retain the aromatics and fresh character of the variety fermentation is carried out slowly and at low temperatures. The wine is left on its lees for a few months to develop further flavour and texture.
Calling out for shellfish or even whole fish cooked on the barbecue.
Revenant 2017 £10.50
Western Cape, South Africa
The winning blend of Sauvignon and Chenin Blanc once common-place in the Loire Valley delivers a bright white with uplifting citrus fruit aromatics. Revenant has a perfect balance of fruit, weight and texture making for a versatile and food friendly white.
Revenant demonstrates the re-birth of tradition in Western Cape winemaking, returning to natural ways in the vineyard and wineries with minimal intervention being key. It also celebrates their return to blending and re-visiting, once lost, Old World blends.
After 10 months of ageing on the lees this wine has developed plenty of texture. It can pair with so many different dishes from barbecued pork, roast chicken, creamy sauces and seafood.
Côtes du Rhône ‘Les Cerisiers’ Rosé 2017 £11.00
Côtes du Rhône, France
Mike came across this rosé on his adventures last year and fell in love and it would seem it has had the same effect on our customers! Pretty salmon -pink, beautifully and delicately aromatic with a full-flavoured ripe red berry palate. Soft and textured whilst elegant… very moreish indeed.
Meticulous selection of vineyards, specific plots and fruit is paramount to winemaker Eric Monnin in the quest to produce expressive, balanced and flavoursome wine.
Though extremely food-friendly, pop open with lunch, it is very content to be enjoyed on its own!
Langlois-Château Saumur-Champigny 2016 £15
Loire Valley, France
A delicious summertime red which we would suggest serving slightly chilled. A beautiful cherry red in colour, super juicy and medium-bodied. This Cabernet Franc is intensely aromatic with bright red fruits and violets prevailing followed by a fruity, rounded palate.
All care is taken to retain the fresh and juicy fruit flavours of the Cabernet Franc grapes. For example, the grapes are harvested in plots and all pickings macerated separately in steel tanks at low temperatures.
Fabulous with grilled white meats and fish.
Norton Porteño Malbec 2017 £12
Lujan de Cuyo, Argentina
A vibrant, un-oaked and fresher style of Malbec. One for summertime sipping naturally with a barbecue on the go. Don’t be put off by Porteño’s slightly lighter style, it has bags of aroma, flavour and smooth structure. Juicy black fruits, wild red fruits and some spice all rub shoulders in this medium-bodied red.
Though not certified as Organic the Norton vineyard and winery are run on organic lines. Minimal intervention, hand-picking and using natural yeasts are just part of the process.
Entirely reasonably you might be wondering why my head has suddenly appeared on a wine label and how I could consider naming a fabulous wine from Bordeaux something as off-the-wall as “Jammy Git”. Allow me to explain…
I’ve had cause to be a bit reflective of late. Call it age (my 50th birthday suddenly doesn’t feel too far away) but I’ve pondered about the circuitous route that led us into life in Cornwall and ownership of a rather nice little wine shop. When I break it all down it’s true to say that we’ve worked hard, we’ve created a few opportunities and we’ve been willing to take a chance here and there… to make a few brave choices… to take the plunge if you will.
But we’ve also been very lucky. Lucky with some of the opportunities that arose at just the right moment and lucky with the people we’ve met along the way. And the development of our “Jammy Git” wine range is a case in point.
The name “Jammy Git” is a playful nod to the serendipity that led us into ownership of BinTwo nearly five years ago and the general, all-round jamminess that we have broadly enjoyed since. Customers often comment about how lucky I am to do what I do. And, whilst it’s often hard work, I can’t disagree.
I suppose I’m also allowing myself to have some fun with the branding (call it my fifth “business birthday” present to myself). We could have produced something serious and austere… but that’s not really us. I’m also following a hunch that customers might enjoy something more playful than another label featuring a generic picture of a chateau or a horse pulling a plough. Time will tell…
Some people make a career out of searching the globe for small pockets of extraordinary wines. With characteristic good luck our first contender for a BinTwo branded wine presented itself to us on our first visit to a Bordeaux vineyard. It’s made by Mark Hellyar – a winemaker who’s become a good friend over the years – he’s our kind of people. He’s a Cornishman making some extraordinary wines in Bordeaux with a contemporary touch – he’s not been afraid to shake up tradition. As I said, he’s our kind of people.
In 2014 (our first year at the helm of BinTwo) we visited Mark’s vineyard, Chateau Civrac in Côtes de Bourg. It was the first vineyard I visited as someone “in the trade” and I was mesmerised. Mark had been playing with the idea of making a range of high-end, limited edition varietal wines and he had the very best of his 2012 Merlot gently maturing in just one large barrel. He drew me a sample from the barrel. We tasted it right there in his small winery – largely unchanged since the 18th century. It still had some aging to do but it was clear he was onto a winner. “I’ll have some of that when it’s ready” said I. And so my first purchase direct from the winemaker was made. In the end it was so good I took it all.
Aged for 14 months in a two-year-old French oak barrel this cracking wine has developed great character. Plummy, slightly smoky with a rich, soft texture and lingering finish. It’s a very easy-drinking wine that would go down well on it’s own or with a few nibbles. Equally it has enough about it to pair well with food. I like mine with barbequed meats, but to be honest, I love it so much I’d be happy to match it to a bag of Monster Munch – it’s a wine I’ll turn to whatever the occasion.
It’s my hope that this Merlot won’t be the last Jammy Git wine (customer feedback and sales will determine that!) What Jammy Git wines will have in common is a certain authenticity. By which I mean they will be wines that I feel we have a genuine connection with. We’ll have met the winemaker, visited the vineyard, understood their ethos. Maybe even have had a small part in the development of the wine.
I may not always be able to tell you that only one barrel of the wine was made and we have it (although that is the case with our Jammy Git Merlot) but I will be able to look you in the eye and tell you that I haven’t bought a blank bottled, mass produced wine and slapped our label on it in order to maximise profits.
Nope, they’ll be good, honest wines. Wines that I love that I think you’ll love too. Wines priced fairly with no massive “own label” margins applied. Wines that have been made by winemakers I believe in with an ethos I can get behind. I wouldn’t put my name, or indeed my face, on anything else.
When I returned from my visit to Mark’s vineyard in 2014 I wrote a blog, re-posted here, that might go some way to explaining more about why there could only ever really be one choice for our first BinTwo wine.
Why a Bordeaux Special you ask (& a two page bumper edition no less!)
For no better reason than the fact that Mary, the boys & I have just returned from a trip exploring this legendary winemaking region & I’ve fallen in love with the place. Who could blame me – just look at these luscious Merlot grapes at Château Civrac just begging to be picked & transformed into a Grand Vin. They’re so beautiful it’s positively indecent!
Bordeaux is, of course, the largest wine region in France both in terms of production (9000 producers making about 800 million bottles per year) & vineyard acreage (the region has a whopping 300 thousand acres of vineyards!) I was aware of these huge numbers but to be honest they meant little to me until I saw the seemingly endless landscape of pristine vines.
How lucky that the most prolific agricultural crop in Bordeaux also happens to produce such a mesmerizingly seductive landscape. You will have gathered by now that I have developed somewhat of a crush for the area.
Highpoints of this new romance would have to include the time we spent in St Emilion. Aside from producing some of the best wine in the region this perfectly-preserved medieval hilltop town is simply beautiful. So taken in was I that I made easy prey for fellow wine merchant Hugo Stefanski who shamelessly upsold me on a selection of wines including a probably over-priced Pomerol made by a tiny producer who’s managed to hold on to just 1 acre of land next door to Pétrus – the big boys in the region (they recently offered him 2 million euros for it apparently). You think I’d be immune to this kind of blatant sales patter but I was powerless to resist!
Eating fresh oysters from the Bassin d’Arcachon with a glass of white Bordeaux Graves at a beach shack on Cap Ferret will live long in the memory. But my fondest memories are of the time we spent at Château Civrac with Cornishman turned Bordeaux winemaker Mark Hellyar.
Many of you will know the story of how he rescued a neglected Château & vineyard near Bourg sur Gironde & you may have tasted his wines at BinTwo. Certainly it’s no secret that I’m a huge fan of Mark’s work but visiting his vineyard (& we were honoured to discover that we were his very first visitors) really brought his inspiring story to life.
Winemaking, as I witnessed, is blooming hard graft & Mark is right in the thick of it. The winery dates back to the late 18th century & remains largely unchanged. The early 20th century saw the addition of concrete storage tanks as used by Pétrus (fantastic for maintaining stable storage conditions) & Mark has grafted on the bare minimum of 21st century technology to improve electronic temperature & quality control. But otherwise his processes remain remarkably traditional – if a small-scale, minimal intervention, high quality artisan wine is your thing then stop looking.
Walking through the unassuming door to the winery at Château Civrac feels like taking a little step back in history & we feel very privileged to have been allowed to take it. Thanks Mark – keep up the good work!
The word in the trade is that customer interest in organic and biodynamic wines continues to grow. That’s certainly been our experience at BinTwo and even more so over at our sister business, The ARC Speciality Food Store.
So what’s all the hype about? Can you actually taste the difference? What does biodynamic even mean in the context of wine? Well, you could read our previous blog on the topic or, if you’re more of a practically minded student, you could come along to our free drop-in tasting on Friday 16th May. From 5.30 – 9.00 pm we’ll be opening up six fabulous examples of biodynamic wines courtesy of one of our favourite South African winemakers – Louis Boutinot from Waterkloof.
No need to book. Just pop in, have a free taster and see what you think. We’ll have the wines on sale by the glass if you find you’d like to settle in for a little longer (and we’ll keep them on all weekend in case you can’t make it on Friday). But it’s Friday when Louis will be on hand to answer any questions you might have and to tell you as much (or as little) as you’d like to know about the wonderful world of biodynamic wines. Louis is our kind of winemaker – he knows his craft but he talks about wine in a straight forward way. At his last event with us he summed up the Waterkloof philosophy very neatly and in a very memorable way – “we make wines that haven’t been dicked about with”.
Louis and the rest of the team at Waterkloof have been making biodynamic wines with minimal intervention before if became a “thing” – it’s just always been what they thought was the best approach to get the best out of their grapes. In fact Waterkloof are so artisan they still use a horse to pull their plough – the very horse featured in this post. Just chilling and enjoying the view.
Just a playful title to catch your attention! This month’s selection reflects our recent efforts to source some knock-out organic and biodynamic wines over the winter. All of these wines will be open to taste at BinTwo on Saturday 26th May from 12.30 – 5pm (ish) courtesy of our newest supplier, North South Wines. We love them all and we think you will too…
Passitivo Organico 2015 £12.50
I properly love this wine – a real “find”. Intense ruby-red colour, with a complex bouquet, reminiscent of cherries, raspberries and redcurrants. The oak aging adds a pleasant roasted and spicy aroma. On the palate, it is full-bodied, supple and well-balanced with a long finish.
In mid August, when the grapes have reached perfect maturity and are ready to be picked, a special technique called “il giro del picciolo”(the twisting of the stem), is applied. This consists in twisting the stem of the grape bunches so that no further nourishment reaches the grapes, thus inducing a natural drying of the grapes on the vine. The grapes are left on the plant for approximately 12 days, and lose around 25-30% of their weight in water, concentrating their flavors before harvest. The wine is aged for 5 months in American oak barriques and 6 months in stainless steel tanks.
Roast meats, BBQs or charcuterie.
Paxton Grenache 2016 2016 £22.00
McLaren Vale, Australia
Vibrant red in colour. Great nose with hints of plum fruit, mulberries, and rhubarb. Light to medium bodied wine with a soft, juicy palate, plum richness and elegant tannins.
2016 was a very strong year in McLaren Vale with the highest quality crops and highest yield crop this millennium. 20% of the carefully hand-picked harvest was used as whole bunches, with the remainder gently de-stemmed. Aged in French oak barriques for six months prior to blending and bottling. Ready to drink now but also would keep well for 5 – 10 years. Might be worth tucking a case away if you store it carefully!
Rabbit, game, good sausages, slow roasted pork – that sort of thing.
Il Grillo di Santa Tresa Vino Spumante Biologico £15.00
Pale straw coloured with hints of gold, Grillo Spumante has fine, gentle bubbles and a fresh fruity nose with hints of citrus and floral notes. On the palate the wine is very well balanced, gentle
and soft with a refreshing burst of acidity and spectacular fruity notes.
Following de-stemming, the grapes are gently pressed in a pneumatic press. Prior to fermentation, the juice is chilled, allowing the solid particles to settle naturally, giving a clear juice ready for fermentation. Selected yeasts are added to initiate fermentation. As soon as the fermentation is finished, the wine is racked to another stainless steel tank. Here it is stored at a controlled temperature while the secondary fermentation takes place. In order to maintain the optimum level of natural acidity, malolactic fermentation does not take place.
Just so drinkable on it’s own but would go down a treat with oysters!
Terra Sana Sauvignon Blanc 2016 £12
Côtes de Gascogne, France
Very fresh and complex nose with a combination of citrus fruits, lemongrass, green apple and lychee aromas.
Elegant and well balanced, with green apple and lemon flavours and great length of finish.
Wine maker François Lurton has a true passion for naturally produced wines. The brand Terra Sana was launched over a decade ago, offering both white, red and rosé wines produced from organically grown grapes of selected varieties and terroirs.
A very versatile and approachable wine. Good with pre-dinner nibbles but would also work nicely with prawns or oily fish.
Paxton “The Guesser” 2017 £13.50
McLaren Vale, Australia
A very moreish wine – buy one today and I reckon we’ll see you tomorrow for more! Bright tropical fruit, grapefruit, lemon and lime. This wine has got it all going on!
2017 was a fantastic year for winemaking in McLaren Vale with an extremely wet winter and a consistent Spring and Summer with mild days and cool nights. All this made for a slow ripening season resulting in fragrant whites with lower acidity. There’s a lush edge to The Guesser that we think you’ll love.
Enjoy with a Spring chicken dish or as a nicely chilled glass whilst cooking the dinner!
Terra Sana Rosé 2017 £12.00
IGP Pays D’oc, France
Pale-pink colour but with really intense aromas of white flowers, peach and a hint of lemon. On the palate this rosé is really well balanced being both fresh and light but with a bit more body to it than your typical Provence style rosé.
The vineyards selected for the Terra Sana Rosé are located in the Gard department (“Petite Camargue”), on hillsides where the vines are better drained, more ventilated and perfectly bathed in sunlight, thus allowing a regularly healthy vineyard. Happy vines equals happy wines!
Perfect for quaffing in the sun but with enough about it to carry off a food match too. Did someone say shellfish?
The word in the trade is that customer interest in organic and biodynamic wines continues to grow. That’s certainly been our experience at BinTwo and even more so over at our sister business, The ARC Speciality Food Store.
So what’s all the hype about? Can you actually taste the difference? What does organic and biodynamic even mean in the context of wine? Well, you could read our previous blog on the topic or, if you’re more of a practically minded student, you could come along to our free drop-in tasting on Saturday 26th May. From 12.30 until 5.00pm (ish) we’ll be opening up six fabulous examples of new organic and biodynamic wines courtesy of our newest supplier, North South Wines.
No need to book. Just pop in, have a free taster and see what you think. We’ll have the wines on sale by the glass if you find you’d like to settle in for a little longer and we’ll also be putting the wines together into this month’s Select 6 case which, as you know, means that you get six fabulous wines for the price of five! (In fact if you’d like a preview of what we’ll be tasting, check out this month’s Select 6 notes).
James Reina from North South Wines will be on hand to answer any questions you might have and to tell you as much (or as little) as you’d like to know about the wonderful world of organic and biodynamic wines. James is half Sicilian, half Spanish and has worked in the wine game for over ten years. His Grandpa used to make wine in Sicily so you might almost say that wine runs through his veins.
North South Wines caught my attention when I was scouting for new wines over the winter because they were willing to muck about with me on twitter (true story). But happily, once I caught a dose of maturity, I discovered that they’re a young, small firm, partly owned by wineries. Their vision of avoiding the stuffiness associated with some of the wine trade and becoming a specialist in sustainable, family owned and authentic wineries struck a resonance with me (authenticity is something I’ve been thinking about a lot lately – more about that in future blog). We’ve selected a range of interesting, great value wines which I think you’ll love – come along and see if you agree.
Il Grillo di Santa Tresa. Vittoria, Sicily, Italy.
Demand for prosecco continues to grow unabated. But here at BinTwo we like to introduce you to something different. Over the winter we found this stunning sparkling wine from Sicily made with 100% grillo grapes. On a dreary February morning this bright, clean fresh little fizz opened a brief window to sunnier places. Some wines we debate endlessly before deciding to order it. With this one Kate, Harriet and I exchanged nods of approval and uttered two words… “oh, yes”.
Don’t just consider this a prosecco alternative; it’s so much better than that. Pale straw coloured with hints of gold, this wine has fine, gentle bubbles and a fresh fruity nose with hints of citrus and floral notes. Dry and fresh with really well balanced acidity, this fizz will slip down easily on it’s own but would also go nicely with shellfish.
We’ve never offered a prosecco by the glass here at BinTwo. But we think this fizz might just have earned a place on the terrace menu this summer. That’s how much we love it and we reckon you will too. It’s even organic and vegan friendly too – you can feel positively virtuous about drinking it!
Already great value at just £16.00 or a steal at £14.40 to wine club members!
Here at BinTwo we love dogs… L-O-V-E them! We’ve always welcomed them on the terrace as well as in the shop and even provide a little drink for our canine buddies. The word is obviously out as we’ve seen a growth in the number of four legged customers who come and visit us. Our pooch pals rarely cause us any problems. Here we speak to The Great Rustini, canine chum of our good friend Sean, about how they should make sure that their humans behave…
“Mr Great Rustini, thanks for joining us. That’s quite a mouthful of a name by the way”.
“No problem and you can blame my human. I mean, WHO would give a dog a name better suited to a magician? Just call me Rusty.”
“Thanks Rusty. And I’m glad you touched on the eccentric behaviour of humans. Y’see… we need to talk.”
“So I’m not in trouble? I thought it might be about when I was last in your place. I was a bit sandy from the beach and had to… clean myself up.”
“No – it’s not that. We welcome your… personal hygiene. You’re a dog – licking… everywhere is what you do. I just need you to have a word with your human. They love you very much and sometimes it makes them do things that seem a little… a little bit…”
“A little bit mad?”
“No! Not mad… obviously. Clearly that’s not what I meant to suggest, Rusty!”
“Well you should. They’re bonkers – all of them. I mean, there’s a range of nuttiness, but they’re all on the fruit loop scale somewhere.”
“Look – that’s not what I’m saying, I just meant -“
“Seriously – they are! My mate from down the park… his humans have created his own Facebook page! They write posts in his name and everything. All a bit offensive really – full of lots of canine stereotypes. And the outfits they make him wear for his profile photos – you wouldn’t believe the trauma they put him through. He hates Christmas – all those silly hats and the Christmas cards to his mates signed “from Max” – bonkers…”
“Riiiiight. Anyway, I’m definitely not suggesting that you and your mates’ humans are in any way mad. My point is that they just love you all very much and occasionally… very, very occasionally, some of them lose sight of the fact that not all humans love you as much as them…”
“So you hate dogs then.”
“NO! I love dogs! Especially you obviously. But some folk are allergic to dogs (my wife included) and some people just don’t want to play with you like your owners do. I’ve got to look out for those sorts of humans too so we need a few simple rules”.
“I get it – I mean you and all the other dog haters out there have a massive hole where your soul should be, but I get it… and have you thought about finding a new wife?”
“I DO NOT HATE DOGS! (and yes, frequently)”
“Alright – keep your hair on. I’m just kidding – I get what you mean. Down on the beach the other day there was this dog who was jumping all over a little kid. Kid was clearly terrified and the dog’s human turned up laughing saying the dog was “only being friendly” – that’s not on is it?”
“Exactly that – that’s the sort of thing I’m talking about!”
“Honestly we can get away with anything… A-N-Y-T-H-I-N-G. As long as I stick my tongue out, smile and wag my tail then I’m untouchable. My human would let me off with eating that kid on the beach as long as I looked cheerful while I’m doing it. Right – what rules shall we agree then? We like coming to your gaff. Not everywhere welcomes us and, in fairness, you’re pretty cool about letting us in alongside everyone else. I’ll have a word with my mates in the park – in between a bit of important sniffing of each other obviously – and we’ll get the message through to our humans. Shoot”
“Thanks Rusty – I’d appreciate that. It’s really awkward when we raise it – your humans love you so much they sometimes take it personally. OK – first up we’d like you to be kept on your lead and under control. Clearly I know that you’re the boss in the canine/human relationship…”
“You’re damn right I am”
“… but you and your friends tend to go exploring when you’re off the lead and that means us and others might step on you or trip over you when we’re charging around serving people. Also we’ve had some dogs come wandering round behind the counter and into the food preparation area. I mean, who doesn’t like a Scooby Snack but that’s not on”.
“Well that one’s obvious – I imagine it’s creates some issues with your food hygiene inspections. No problemo. Rule number one – we stay on the lead and under control. Got it… go on.”
“You’re right about the food hygiene inspections. I have had one dog owner explain to me that canine saliva is cleaner than human saliva but the county council don’t really see it that way. Secondly, and this is the one that really upsets some of your humans, we’d like you to stay off the seats unless your owner’s brought some sort of blanket or other cover for you”.
“Hmmm. Not sure about this. I sit on the sofa at home and it’s damn comfy. The floor at your place – well… it’s not”
“I get it. I really do. But that’s your home and your human’s choice. A lot of people come into BinTwo all dressed up ready for a nice night out and they shouldn’t really have to worry about getting covered in hair. And, before you jump in, I know you’re not a breed that sheds hair. Nonetheless some people feel it’s not really hygienic for you to be sitting on the seats as your… your bits are obviously all a bit… naked. We’ve also had some damage with claws tearing the upholstery and it’s not cheap to fix when that happens”.
“OK. Can’t say I’m happy about it, but I get where you’re coming from. I’ll sort them out – they won’t give you any hassle. Rule number two – we stay off the seats. Anything else?”
“Just one thing more and you’ve already touched on it Rusty. It’s just asking your humans to be thoughtful and to not let you be a bother to other customers. Some people will love you just as much as your humans. But not everyone will. Some people are even… cat people”.
“Yes, I know. Anyway, it’s that scenario you spoke about on the beach. Some people are wary of dogs. Hard to believe I know, but true. They might be happy to say a friendly hello but they don’t want to play. Just occasionally your humans are so in love with you they don’t read the signs from other people. Can you help?”
“OK. So if I’ve got this right, we’re talking about three rules:
1. I stay on a lead and under control.
2. I stay off the seats.
3. I don’t bother people who don’t want to play.
Is that it?”
“Yep – it’s that simple”
“And if me, my mates and our humans stick to those we can all still come into the shop and hang out? You’ll give us the water and everything?”
“Well that seems fair. Deal!”
“Thanks Rusty. The moment you walked in I could tell you were a smart cookie. Now just go and sell the plan to you human for me”.
“Done – mine is a particularly odd one though isn’t he?”
“You’re damn right”.
I’ve always found that BinTwo customers are interested in the stories behind our wines. But generally within the trade there’s increased interest from customers in the way the wines they buy are made. This has encouraged, in some instances, an almost cult like reverence for terms such as natural, organic and biodynamic. But it’s often far from clear what these terms mean and whether winemakers are applying them consistently.
Over the winter we’ve worked hard to source some great wines that are organic, biodynamic and even vegan. Although we’ve struck up partnerships with some fantastic new suppliers and winemakers along the way, it perhaps shouldn’t have surprised me that some of our existing winemakers have been quietly making wines that fit into this space for some time. They just haven’t marketed them as such because no-one’s been that bothered.
If you’ve read our interview with Joe Fattorini about natural wines, then you’ll know I’m not convinced about that particular ideology. But we’ve tried to get under the hood of these increasingly common terms to help us make smarter choices about the wines we can offer to those of you who are interested. What hasn’t changed is that we continue to hunt down interesting wines that taste great, that are made by people who love what they do and that have a compelling story to tell.
Here, writing for Imbibe, freelance wine writer Darren Smith does a first rate job of de-mystifying ten on trend wine trade buzz words. If it’s fired up your interest, then look out for our upcoming events featuring biodynamic wines on 26th May and minimal intervention wines from South Africa on 15th June…
A selection of wines to pair with Spring time dishes and others to simply enjoy on their own! We’re also delighted to introduce some exciting new additions in this months case including our ‘Wines We Love’, a new Organic Sicilian white. Happy Easter!
‘Logis de la Bouchardière’ Chinon 2015 £12.50
This is a deliciously succulent mid-weight red which has seen a touch of old-oak ageing. Fragrant, fruity and herbaceous combine with supple tannins and lengthy finish. A stylish, great value and very tasty Chinon indeed!
Bruno Sourdais is at the helm of The Logis de la Bourchardière, a domaine dating back to 1850 with its oldest vines being over 100 years old. The fruit for this Chinon come from grapes from some of the younger vines, approx 30 year old.
It just has to be Charcuterie.
Rebel Canyon Merlot 2016 £9
This new addition is a hit. Not only is it great value but it lives up to Merlot expectations, juicy fruit, ripe plums and dark cherries, soft tannins, rich and smooth, an easy drinking drop.
You’ll find no oak here just bags of fruit. The dark-skinned Merlot grapes reach optimum ripens in the Californian climate, Rebel blends Merlot fruit from different growers to make a rounded juicy wine with balance and elegance.
The perfect evening partner!
Bodegas Murviedo Bobal Cepas Viejas £12.50
Utiel Requena, Spain
Aromatic and bursting with flavour. Forest fruit characters sit alongside a little spice, vanilla and mocha notes. This red has plenty going on… structure, silky tannins, fruity yet fresh with a long and pleasantly dry finish.
The Bobal variety thrives in extreme conditions, long hot sunny days and cool nights, the result for these old vines is a low yet very high quality yield of fruit. After fermentation the wine is aged in new American and French oak for 8 months.
A great match for a Lamb roast.
Val D’Oca Valdobbiadene Prosecco Superior, Rive Di Colbertaldo NV £15.50
A beautifully fine, dry and lively sparkling, layers of flavour, depth and finesse. Soft and appley with just the right amount of zing to get your taste buds tingling. It is rich in both aroma, flavour and structure.
The best grapes from the Colbertaldo area are carefully selected and hand-picked to make this delicious and favourite Prosecco.
For Easter time festivities or to pop open as soon as the springtime sun shines! Fabulous with shellfish.
Da Vero Vino Biologico White 2017 £8
Bright and crisp. Ripe stone fruits, citrus and zippy acidity makes for a fab combination and a very versatile light white.
Sicily’s dry climate is conducive to Organic agricultural practises and the vines for Da Vero have been grown organically since 2005. The fruit is fermented at a cool temperature and aged in stainless steel tanks retaining aromatics, acidity and freshness of fruit.
Pre-dinner nibbles suits this white just fine. Seafood or risottos are the go if you want to give this white a pairing.
Domaine Pré Baron Sauvignon Blanc 2016 £10.50
Touraine, Loire Valley
Our faithful friend, Pré Baron Sauvignon Blanc is a classic Touraine Sauvignon and a beautifully refreshing springtime wine. Intensely aromatic, herbaceous and fruity nose. The palate is bursting with gooseberries, fresh and zingy.
The best fruit is selected and hand-picked from 25 year old vines. After a slow three week fermentation the wine is aged on the lees until bottling in the Spring.
Enjoy with a Spring chicken dish or as a nicely chilled glass whilst cooking the dinner!